Tuesday 1st June Bridgwater to Hendaye

Liz drove me to Bristol airport. We checked in my rucksac and waited for Les, and waited and buttock clutchingly waited. He arrived about 10 mins before closure. Off we went and arrived in Bordeaux sans incident! We shared a cab to the station with a young Ossie who sat with us on the plane. My ticket to Hendaye was less than Les` cos I`m old. Arrived and booked into an hotel opposite the station. After eating we went in search of the sea to dabble our toes. Dark by the time we found it but took some photos anyway (see above). We did think of asking the young couple on the beach to take a shot of both of us but as they were horizontally reposed at the time we thought better of it. And so to bed.

Wednesday 2nd June Hendaye to Olhette

Breakfast at 7 am then off in search of a shop for supplies etc. Nothing opened until 9am. Bought all we wanted except gas for my cooker, so it`s full marks to Cicerone and nil points to Cotswold! We then set off a day early on the route to Olhette, rather than hang around in Hendaye. It was raining a bit but brightened up. Once we hit the trail it was good walking with a reasonable climb. We overtook two Dutchmen and about an hour later on reaching a suitable lunch spot just past the Col D`Osin we were amazed to find them already there. They used an unsigned shortcut!! Lovely view of a lake at this point. More climbing to fantastic views. A distinct danger of running out of superlatives before the really stunning stuff. Les wanted a rest at Mandale and so we spent 45 mins in a bar before pressing on. More steep ups before we descended into Olhette. We booked into the Gite D`Etape and booked an evening meal. Spent a pleasant evening talking with an elderly german lady, Barbara who was doing the compostella.

Thursday 3rd June Ollehette to Ainhoa

Started walking at 0835, and almost immediatly took a wrong turn. We followed a stream for quite a while and became worried we had not seen any way marks. Eventually I checked the GPS and found we were on a trail much lower on the hillside. A bit of judicious scrambling and we found another track which led us up to the GR10. The climb was gruelling in the heat. We reached the Col des trois fontains at about 1045. Scenary again stunning. Went passed a chain railway going to the top of La Rhune and waved at the tourists. It was then into a long descent to Sare which we reached at lunchtime. It was very hot so we stopped in a bar (juice d`orange pour moi) for an hour before pressing on down an old Roman road. The rest of the day was on rural lanes and tracks through pleasant farmland untill a steep 80m ascent which brought us to the road to Ainhoa. We found accomodation in a little self contained flat (bedroom/lounge, kitchen, toilet) attached to a Basque perfumerie for €40. After a nightcap in a local bar we retired.

Friday 4th June Ainhoa to Bidarray

Off at 0745 and stopped to get bread and supplies. The usual steep climb up a road, to a chapel and three crosses. Then continued on past some vultures who watched us with beady eyes! It was very tiring and on reaching the col de Mehatche we had a gentle stroll along a grassy track untill reaching the top of some crags. We then had to descend down a vertigenous path down the face of the crags which was very scarey for those of us that can`t stand heights. In places it was verging on climbing. At the bottom we followed a river and then had a very steep ascent again up over a ridge until we hit a small road leading to Bidarray. After half an hour on this road I thought we must have missed the village and be on tomorrows leg, but fortunately this was not the case. When we arrived in Bidarray we discovered the camp site was another km or two, down a steep hill. Les was pretty exhausted at this time so we booked into an hotel and ordered an evening meal. My ears and arms were bright red and burning from the sun. A local band and dance troop who danced with imitation axes were rehearsing out side the church which provided an interesting few moments. Les had found the day very exhausting and I became a little worried when I noted that the Cicerone guide stated that tomorrow was the first really hard day.

Saturday 5th June Bidarray to St Etienne de Baigorry

We were up and on the trail at 0745, before the shop opened so had limited supplies plus one litre extra water. It was relentlessly up and up in scorching temperatures. Les became more and more exhasted and frequently stopped for rest periods. We eventually reached the Pic d`Iparla after over 4 hours of treking up, picking our way over boulders etc. We carried on a bit further before stopping for lunch, but Les was unable to eat any. Progress here was a little better but was still up and down as the path followed the ridge (a bit like steely rig for those Hadrians wall fans, only more so). We then descended to the Col d`Harrieta where Les discussed cutting the day short. I talked him out of this and we pressed on with even more steep ascents and descents up to the pic`s d`Astate and Burtanzelhay (See top photo above). There then followed another slow steep descent which eventually brought us to a surfaced road which led us to St Etienne de Baigorry. However nothing is ever simple and it just kept going on and on. I was quite a bit in front of les at this point and kept plodding on. We both ran out of water. Again I thought we must have missed the village but eventually I found some people who told me it was 5 minutes further down the road. I was just walking into the village square at 6.30pm when a car drew up beside me. It was Alain and Francoise, two friends from the area, with whom we had arranged to spend a rest day on Sunday. We were both totally exhausted, but with 4 days completed there are now only 46 left to do!!! A and F took us back to their place at Garras, near St Palais where we spent an lovely evening. We met them when the Stanchester Quire did an exchange with a Basque Choir in 2000 and 2002.

Sunday 6th June Rest Day Garras

Heavy thunderstorm in the night and again during the day. Shopping for supplies in the rain first thing then a relaxing day writing journal updating this blog etc. Not sure when next update will be as it will be in an internet cafe.

Also I am unable to sort out how to get the photo`s in the right place due to my lack of understanding of french so you will have to make the most of it as it is.

Au revoir mes amis.